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Despre tipologia portului popular din judeţul Caraş-Severin

  • Subiect: The purpose of this paper is to establish the general characteristics of Banat folk culture, the Banatean territory representing in the past the area best consolidated by the Roman occupation. Heir to a powerful Roman influence on the one hand, and uninterrupted connections with the South-Danubian Balkan territory on the other, the Banat has a particular character which binds it into the Danubian area. The later appearance of occidental-byzantine cultural elements, which are more conspicuous in folk art of the Banat than that of other Romanian regions, shows us that the Banat accepted and preserved only certain specific cultural forms which, when grafted into the vigorous, autochthonous, Daco-Roman trunk, served to crystallize the powerful personality of folk art creativity which we see mirrored in local folk dress. At first glance the distinctive character of feminine costume is surprising. Two unique pieces are peculiar to it: the tassled „opreg”, and the „ceapsă” or „conci” (bonnets) worn on the woman's head. Structurally, the Banatean women's costume falls within the typology of the costume with two „catrinţe” (peasant homespun aprons), which are here replaced by the „opreg”. An unusual piece of dress, the „opreg” consists of a woven portion (called the „petec”) from which hangs a row of long tassles. In past times, it was worn in the form of an apron, one caught in front and the other in back, in pairs (today this „opreg” has been replaced by the „catrinţă”). In its original form, the woven portion of the „opreg” was wider, and its tassles shorter than today. The origin of the „opreg” seems to be Illyrian, since archaeological discoveries in western Yugoslavia - the former territory of the Illyrians - show it to have also belonged to the costume of the Albanians, direct descendants of the Illyrians. The second characteristic element in the Banatean women's costume is its bonnet, which contrasts with costumes of other regions where women bind their heads with a „ştergar” or „năframă” (kinds of kerchiefs). The uniformity in Banatean folk costume is obvious; however, differences can he detected from one place to another which, along with local peculiarities, identify the costumes of more restricted ethnographic zones. Banatean costume is classified by current ethnographic practice into two main categories: a. the costume of the plains zones, which would belong to judeţul Timiş, and b. the costume of the mountainous zones, which would encompass judeţul Caraş-Severin. Among the ethnographic zones crystallized within these two judeţe, Caraş-Severin has the most interesting distinct territorial units with regards to authenticity and tradition. Of these, we select for examination the complex of the mountainous zones in south-east Banat, with its center at Caransebeş and its irradiations along Valea Cernei and Almăj, and the hill zones of south-west Banat, beginning with the zone of Oraviţa and continuing to the Danubian plain. The zones in the north of Caraş-Severin exhibit marked affinity with folk costume in neighboring Timiş. The importance of the women's costume type from the mountainous zones, as well as isolated peculiarities of dress from the Oraviţean hill zones, amply justifies our present preoccupation with costume types from these areas. The Caransebeş costume type, with widespread frequency in diverse water valleys (the most prolific being Valea Bistrei) is characterized by its sturdy appearance, due to the consistent use of cloth thickened with hemp, rough wool, and the robust character of the ornamentation, which is arranged on a broad surface into a compact composition in sober hue. The „cămaşă” is decorated with a rectangular „tablă” (panel) on the sleeve, composed of dense geometrical motifs which cover the surface of the sleeve in the shape of a wide band. The ornamental motifs, as well as the sewing technique, preserve old traditional features. Over the waist, wound with „brâul” and „betele” (belt and waistband), the two decorated „opreg” are caught by the woven portion into horizontal bands, strung in the loom with multi-colored wool. The long tassles are also spun from wool and hang in alternate colors from the „petec” of the „opreg”. More recently this opreg has been replaced by a „catrinţă” decorated in rhomboid motifs strung in the loom. A characteristic element of this costume is the „ceapsă”, a rectangular bonnet worn by married women. The hair is plaited into two braids which are wound around the ears. The „şubă”, a white cloth peasant coat, is decorated with appliqued black cord. A variant of this costume is the women's dress from Almăj, a central zone also in the mountains, which exhibits a few special features - for example, a triangular form for the bonnet, and a less dense treatment of the sleeve panel, within which white spaces appear in the composition of the decoration. The mountain costume, although easily differentiated from one zone to another, nevertheless exhibits considerable stylistic uniformity, the prototype for which shows up in the women's costume from Valea Bistrei to Caransebeş. Another distinct and special type of costume comes from the south-west of Caraş-Severin, which includes Oraviţa and Clisura Dunării. Here we find some remote features of folk dress; for example, the „cunună” worn on the woman's head is made up of beads and coins (a phenomenon not found in other parts of the Banat). Also the „opreg” has unusual dimensions, with a very wide woven portion - a legacy of the initial form of this dress piece. Other elements of a local character appear in the „cămaşă”, which is decorated only in white, and whose sleeve panel is replaced with a white „cheia” („key”) - lace sewn on with a needle - which joins the sleeve pieces. The „cojoc” (sheepskin vest), long disappeared from holiday garb, has been replaced by a vest made from white peasant fabric decorated with colored cloth. Similarly, the „şubă” - a coat made from the same type of cloth - has the same appliqued decoration, which is similar to native dress in the Danubian area. The man's costume, which is so uniform across the whole of Romania, also exhibits fewer differences from one zone to another in judeţul Caraş-Severin. We observe the same costume composition, including the vest of peasant cloth, which, however, varies in color and in ornamental scheme. A common and quite valuable decorative element is the „key” which unites the widths of cloth and which constitutes the principal decorative element in the man's shirt. In winter, men wear a „căciulă” (fur cap). It is interesting to note that the form of the „căciulă” from the zone of Caransebeş is identical with the hat worn by Dacian nobles, „tarabostes”, depicted on the Column of Trajan in Rome.
  • Limba de redactare: română, engleză
  • Secţiunea: Etnografie
  • Vezi publicația: Tibiscum
  • Editura: Muzeul Judeţean de Etnografie şi Istorie Locală Caransebeş
  • Loc publicare: Caransebeş
  • Anul publicaţiei: 1977
  • Referinţă bibliografică pentru nr. revistă: II; anul 1977; subtitlu: Studii şi Comunicări de Etnografie-Istorie; seria Etnografie-Istorie
  • Paginaţia: 97-109
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